Gel creams in the form of O/W emulsions containing one or more ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/vinylpyrrolidone copolymers

ABSTRACT

Cosmetic or dermatological gel creams of the oil-in-water type, comprising 
     (i) up to 90% by weight of a water phase, 
     (ii) up to 20% by weight of a lipid phase, based on the total weight of the preparations, 
     (iii) up to 5% by weight of one or more emulsifiers, 
     (iv) also comprising up to 5% by weight of one or more ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurates/vinylpyrrolidone copolymers.

The present invention relates to cosmetic and dermatologicalpreparations, in particular those of the oil-in-water type, to processesfor their preparation, and to their use for cosmetic and medicinalpurposes.

The human skin is man's largest organ and performs a number of vitalfunctions. Having an average area of about 2 m² in adults, it has aprominent role as a protective and sensory organ. The purpose of thisorgan is to transmit and avert mechanical, thermal, actinic, chemicaland biological stimuli. In addition, it has an important role as aregulatory and target organ in human metabolism.

The main aim of skin care in the cosmetics sense is to strengthen orrestore the skin's natural function as a barrier against environmentalinfluences (e.g. dirt, chemicals, microorganisms) and against the lossof endogenous substances (e.g. water, natural fats, electrolytes), andalso to assist its horny layer in its natural regeneration ability incases of existing damage.

If the barrier properties of the skin are impaired, increased resorptionof toxic or allergenic substances or attack by microorganisms mayresult, leading to toxic or allergic skin reactions.

Another aim of skin care is to compensate for the loss by the skin ofsebum and water caused by daily washing. This is particularly importantif the natural regeneration ability is inadequate. Furthermore, skincare products should protect against environmental influences, inparticular against sun and wind, and delay skin aging.

Medicinal topical compositions usually comprise one or more medicamentsin an effective concentration. For the sake of simplicity, in order toclearly distinguish between cosmetic and medicinal use and correspondingproducts, reference is made to the legal provisions in the FederalRepublic of Germany (e.g. Cosmetics Directive, Foods and Drugs Act).

Emulsions are generally understood as meaning heterogeneous systemswhich consist of two liquids, which are usually referred to as phases,which are immiscible or miscible with one another only to a limitedextent. In an emulsion, one of the two liquids is dispersed in the formof very fine droplets in the other liquid.

If the two liquids are water and oil and oil droplets are very finelydispersed in water, this is an oil-in-water emulsion (O/W emulsion, e.g.milk). The basic character of an O/W emulsion is determined by thewater. In the case of a water-in-oil emulsion (W/O emulsion, e.g.butter), the principle is reversed, the basic character being determinedhere by the oil.

Gel creams are particularly light-weight products with a low emulsifierand lipid content. They are characterized by the fact that they can bedistributed readily on the skin and impart a feeling of freshness.Following product application, no or only very little residue shouldremain on the skin. Gel creams generally comprise a relatively highproportion of hydrophilic thickeners (e.g. carbopols, xanthan gum,hydroxyethylcellulose. Since the thickener or the thickener system is inthe external phase, it has a significant influence on the sensoryproperties of the product. Common thickener systems either cannot bereadily distributed, do not give a feeling of freshness or leave behindtoo sticky a residue on the skin.

The aim was to remedy these shortcomings.

Surprisingly, these objects are achieved by cosmetic or dermatologicalgel creams of the oil-in-water type, comprising

(i) up to 90% by weight of a water phase,

(ii) up to 20% by weight of a lipid phase, based on the total weight ofthe preparations,

(iii) up to 5% by weight of one or more emulsifiers,

(iv) also comprising up to 5% by weight of one or more ammoniumacryloyldimethyltaurates/vinylpyrrolidone copolymers.

According to the invention, the ammoniumacryloyldimethyltaurates/vinylpyrrolidone copolymer(s) have theempirical formula [C₇H₁₆N₂SO₄]_(n) [C₆H₉NO]_(m), corresponding to astatistical structure as follows

Preferred species for the purposes of the present invention are filed inChemical Abstracts under the registry numbers 58374-69-9, 13162-05-5 and88-12-0 and are obtainable under the trade name Aristoflex® AVC fromClariant GmbH.

It had therefore not been foreseen by the person skilled in the art thatthe preparations according to the invention

would have better effectiveness as moisture-donating preparations,

would be easier to formulate,

would better promote skin smoothing,

would be characterized by better care action,

would better serve as vehicles for cosmetic and medicinal-dermatologicalactive ingredients

would have better sensory properties, such as, for example, the abilityto be distributed on the skin or the ability to be absorbed into theskin,

would have higher stability against decomposition in oil and waterphases and

would be characterized by better biocompatibility than the preparationsof the prior art.

The preparations according to the invention thus represent an enrichmentof the prior art.

The lipid content of the preparations obtainable according to theinvention can advantageously be varied from 0.5% by weight to 20% byweight, preferably from 5 to 10% by weight, where the results achievedare equally favorable. In the case of freedom from lipid, no emulsion ispresent, but rather a system which should most appropriately be referredto as an emulsifier gel.

Preparations according to the invention preferably comprise up to 7.5%by weight of a lipid phase, in which case they are O/W emulsions.Preparations according to the invention particularly advantageouslycomprise up to 6% by weight of a lipid phase. Preparations according tothe invention particularly preferably comprise 2 to 4% by weight of alipid phase, in particular approximately 3% by weight, in each casebased on the total weight of the preparations.

The lipid phase of the cosmetic or dermatological emulsions according tothe invention can advantageously be chosen from the following group ofsubstances:

mineral oils, mineral waxes

oils, such as triglycerides of capric or of caprylic acid, and alsonatural oils such as, for example, castor oil;

fats, waxes and other natural and synthetic fatty substances, preferablyesters of fatty acids with alcohols of low carbon number, e.g. withisopropanol, propylene glycol or glycerol, or esters of fatty alcoholswith alkanoic acids of low carbon number or with fatty acids;

alkyl benzoates;

silicone oils, such as dimethylpolysiloxanes, diethylpolysiloxanes,diphenylpolysiloxanes and mixed forms thereof.

The oil phase of the emulsions of the present invention isadvantageously chosen from the group of esters of saturated and/orunsaturated, branched and/or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids having achain length of from 3 to 30 carbon atoms and saturated and/orunsaturated, branched and/or unbranched alcohols having a chain lengthof from 3 to 30 carbon atoms, from the group of esters of aromaticcarboxylic acids and saturated and/or unsaturated, branched and/orunbranched alcohols having a chain length of from 3 to 30 carbon atoms.Such ester oils can then advantageously be chosen from the groupconsisting of isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropylstearate, isopropyl oleate, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyloleate, isooctyl stearate, isononyl stearate, isononyl isononanoate,2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl stearate,2-octyldodecyl palmitate, oleyl oleate, oleyl erucate, erucyl oleate,erucyl erucate, and synthetic, semisynthetic and natural mixtures ofsuch esters, e.g. jojoba oil.

In addition, the oil phase can advantageously be chosen from the groupof branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and hydrocarbon waxes, ofsilicone oils, of dialkyl ethers, the group of saturated or unsaturated,branched or unbranched alcohols, and the fatty acid triglycerides,namely the triglycerol esters of saturated and/or unsaturated, branchedand/or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids having a chain length of from 8to 24, in particular 12-18 carbon atoms. The fatty acid triglyceridescan, for example, advantageously be chosen from the group of synthetic,semisynthetic and natural oils, e.g. olive oil, sunflower oil, soybeanoil, groundnut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil,palm kernel oil and the like.

Any mixtures of such oil and wax components can also be usedadvantageously for the purposes of the present invention. It may also insome instances be advantageous to use waxes, for example cetylpalmitate, as the sole lipid component of the oil phase.

The oil phase is advantageously chosen from the group consisting of2-ethylhexyl isostearate, octyldodecanol, isotridecyl isononanoate,isoeicosane, 2-ethylhexyl cocoate, C₁₂₋₁₅-alkyl benzoate,caprylic/capric triglyceride, dicaprylyl ether.

Particularly advantageous mixtures are those of C₁₂₋₁₅-alkyl benzoateand 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, mixtures of C₁₂₋₁₅-alkyl benzoate andisotridecyl isononanoate, and mixtures of C₁₂₋₁₅-alkyl benzoate,2-ethylhexyl isostearate and isotridecyl isononanoate.

Of the hydrocarbons, paraffin oil, squalane and squalene are to be usedadvantageously for the purposes of the present invention.

The oil phase can advantageously also have a content of cyclic or linearsilicone oils, or consist entirely of such oils, although it ispreferable to use an additional content of other oil phase componentsapart from the silicone oil or the silicone oils. Such silicones orsilicone oils may be in the form of monomers, which are generallycharacterized by structural elements, as follows:

Linear silicones having two or more siloxyl units which are to be usedadvantageously according to the invention are generally characterized bystructural elements, as follows:

where the silicon atoms can be substituted by identical or differentalkyl radicals and/or aryl radicals, which are shown here in generalterms by the radicals R₁-R₄ (that is to say the number of differentradicals is not necessarily limited to 4). m can assume values from2-200 000.

Cyclic silicones to be used advantageously according to the inventionare generally characterized by structural elements, as follows

where the silicon atoms can be substituted by identical or differentalkyl radicals and/or aryl radicals, which are shown here in generalterms by the radicals R₁-R₄ (that is to say the number of differentradicals is not necessarily limited to 4). n can assume values from 3/2to 20. Fractions for n take into consideration that uneven numbers ofsiloxyl groups may be present in the cycle.

Advantageously, cyclomethicone (e.g. decamethylcyclopentasiloxane) isused as the silicone oil to be used according to the invention. However,other silicone oils are also to be used advantageously for the purposeof the present invention, for example undecamethylcyclotrisiloxane,polydimethylsiloxane, poly(methylphenylsiloxane), cetyl-dimethicone,behenoxydimethicone.

Also advantageous are mixtures of cyclomethicone and isotridecylisononanoate, and those of cyclomethicone and 2-ethylhexyl isostearate.

It is, however, also advantageous to choose silicone oils of similarconstitution to the above-described compounds whose organic side chainsare derivatized, for example polyethoxylated and/or polypropoxylated.These include, for example, polysiloxane-polyalkyl-polyether copolymers,such as cetyl-dimethicone copolyol, (cetyl-dimethicone copolyol (and)polyglyceryl-4-isostearate (and) hexyl laurate).

Also particularly advantageous are mixtures of cyclomethicone andisotridecyl isononanoate, and of cyclomethicone and 2-ethylhexylisostearate.

The aqueous phase of the preparations according to the inventionoptionally advantageously comprises alcohols, diols or polyols of lowcarbon number, and ethers thereof, preferably ethanol, isopropanol,propylene glycol, glycerol, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethylor monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutylether, diethylene glycol monomethyl or monoethyl ether and analogousproducts, and also alcohols of low carbon number, e.g. ethanol,isopropanol, 1,2-propanediol, glycerol, and, in particular, one or morethickeners which can advantageously be chosen from the group consistingof silicon dioxide and aluminum silicates.

Preparations according to the invention in the form of emulsionsadvantageously comprise, in particular, one or more hydrocolloids. Thesehydrocolloids can advantageously be chosen from the group of gums,polysaccharides, cellulose derivatives, phyllosilicates, polyacrylatesand/or other polymers.

The gums include saps from plants or trees which harden in the air andform resins, or extracts from aquatic plants. From this group, for thepurposes of the present invention, gum arabic, carob flour, tragacanth,karaya, guar gum, pectin, gellan gum, carrageen, agar, algins, chondrus,xanthan gum, for example, can be chosen advantageously.

Also advantageous is the use of derivatized gums, such as, for example,hydroxypropyl guar (Jaguar® HP 8).

The polysaccharides and polysaccharide derivatives include, for example,hyaluronic acid, chitin and chitosan, chondroitin sulfates, starch andstarch derivatives.

The cellulose derivatives include, for example, methylcellulose,carboxymethylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose,hydroxypropylmethylcellulose.

The phyllosilicates include naturally occurring and synthetic clayearths, such as, for example, montmorillonite, bentonite, hectorite,laponite, magnesium aluminum silicates such as Veegum®. These can beused as such or in modified form, such as, for example, stearylalkoniumhectorite.

In addition, silica gels can also be used advantageously.

The polyacrylates include, for example, Carbopol grades from Goodrich(Carbopol 980, 981, 1382, 5984, 2984, EDT 2001 or Pemulen TR2).

The polymers include, for example, polyacrylamides (Seppigel 305),polyvinyl alcohols, PVP, PVP/VA copolymers, polyglycols.

Preparation according to the invention in the form of emulsions compriseone or more emulsifiers. These emulsifiers can advantageously be chosenfrom the group of nonionic, anionic, cationic or amphoteric emulsifiers.

The nonionic emulsifiers include

a) partial fatty acid esters and fatty acid esters of polyhydricalcohols and ethoxylated derivatives thereof (e.g. glycerylmonostearates, sorbitan stearates, glyceryl stearyl citrates, sucrosestearates)

b) ethoxylated fatty alcohols and fatty acids

c) ethoxylated fatty amines, fatty acid amides, fatty acid alkanolamides

d) alkylphenol polyglycol ethers (e.g. Triton X).

The anionic emulsifiers include

a) soaps (e.g. sodium stearate)

b) fatty alcohol sulfates

c) mono-, di- and trialkyl phosphoric esters and ethoxylates thereof.

The cationic emulsifiers include

a) quaternary ammonium compounds with a long-chain aliphatic radical,e.g. distearyldimonium chloride.

The amphoteric emulsifiers include

a) alkylaminoalkanecarboxylic acids

b) betaines, sulfobetaines

c) imidazoline derivatives.

In addition, there are naturally occurring emulsifiers, which includebeeswax, wool wax, lecithin and sterols.

O/W emulsifiers can be advantageously chosen, for example, from thegroup of polyethoxylated or polypropoxylated or polyethoxylated andpolypropoxylated products, e.g.:

fatty alcohol ethoxylates,

ethoxylated wool wax alcohols,

polyethylene glycol ethers of the general formulaR—O—(—CH₂—CH₂—O—)_(n)—R′,

fatty acid ethoxylates of the general formula R—COO—(—CH₂—CH₂—O—)_(n)—H,

etherified fatty acid ethoxylates of the general formulaR—COO—(—CH₂—CH₂—O—)_(n)—R′,

esterified fatty acid ethoxylates of the general formulaR—COO—(—CH₂—CH₂—O—)_(n)—C(O)—R′,

polyethylene glycol glycerol fatty acid esters,

ethoxylated sorbitan esters,

cholesterol ethoxylates,

ethoxylated triglycerides,

alkyl ether carboxylic acids of the general formulaR—O—(—CH₂—CH₂—O—)_(n)—CH₂—COOH and n is a number from 5 to 30,

polyoxyethylene sorbitol fatty acid esters,

alkyl ether sulfates of the general formula R—O—(—CH₂—CH₂—O—)_(n)—SO₃—H,

fatty alcohol propoxylates of the general formulaR—O—(—CH₂—CH(CH₃)—O—)_(n)—H,

polypropylene glycol ethers of the general formulaR—O—(—CH₂—CH(CH₃)—O—)_(n)—R′,

propoxylated wool wax alcohols,

etherified fatty acid propoxylates R—COO—(—CH₂—CH(CH₃)—O—)_(n)—R′,

esterified fatty acid propoxylates of the general formulaR—COO—(—CH₂—CH(CH₃)—O—)_(n)—C(O)—R′,

fatty acid propoxylates of the general formulaR—COO—(—CH₂—CH(CH₃)—O—)_(n)—H,

polypropylene glycol glycerol fatty acid esters,

propoxylated sorbitan esters,

cholesterol propoxylates,

propoxylated triglycerides,

alkyl ether carboxylic acids of the general formulaR—O—(—CH₂—CH(CH₃)O—)_(n)—CH₂—COOH,

alkyl ether sulfates or the parent acids of these sulfates of thegeneral formula R—O—(—CH₂—CH(CH₃)—O—)_(n)—SO₃—H,

fatty alcohol ethoxylates/propoxylates of the general formulaR—O—X_(n)—Y_(m)—H,

polypropylene glycol ethers of the general formula R—O—X_(n)—Y_(m)—R′,

etherified fatty acid propoxylates of the general formulaR—COO—X_(n)—Y_(m)—R′,

fatty acid ethoxylates/propoxylates of the general formulaR—COO—X_(n)—Y_(m)—H.

According to the invention, particularly advantageous polyethoxylated orpolypropoxylated or polyethoxylated and polypropoxylated O/W emulsifiersused are those chosen from the group of substances having HLB values, of11-18, very particularly preferably having HLB values of 14.5-15.5,provided the O/W emulsifiers have saturated radicals R and R′. If theO/W emulsifiers have unsaturated radicals R and/or R′, or isoalkylderivatives are present, then the preferred HLB value of suchemulsifiers can also be lower or higher.

It is advantageous to choose the fatty alcohol ethoxylates from thegroup of ethoxylated stearyl alcohols, cetyl alcohols, cetylstearylalcohols (cetearyl alcohols). Particular preference is given to:

polyethylene glycol(13) stearyl ether (steareth-13), polyethyleneglycol(14) stearyl ether (steareth-14), polyethylene glycol(15) stearylether (steareth-15), polyethylene glycol(16) stearyl ether(steareth-16), polyethylene glycol(17) stearyl ether (steareth-17),polyethylene glycol(18) stearyl ether (steareth-18), polyethyleneglycol(19) stearyl ether (steareth-19), polyethylene glycol(20) stearylether (steareth-20),

polyethylene glycol(12) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-12), polyethyleneglycol(13) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-13), polyethylene glycol(14)isostearyl ether (isosteareth-14), polyethylene glycol(15) isostearylether (isosteareth-15), polyethylene glycol(16) isostearyl ether(isosteareth-16), polyethylene glycol(17) isostearyl ether(isosteareth-17), polyethylene glycol(18) isostearyl ether(isosteareth-18), polyethylene glycol(19) isostearyl ether(isosteareth-19), polyethylene glycol(20) isostearyl ether(isosteareth-20),

polyethylene glycol(13) cetyl ether (ceteth-13), polyethylene glycol(14)cetyl ether (ceteth-14), polyethylene glycol(15) cetyl ether(ceteth-15), polyethylene glycol(16) cetyl ether (ceteth-16),polyethylene glycol(17) cetyl ether (ceteth-17), polyethylene glycol(18)cetyl ether (ceteth-18), polyethylene glycol(19) cetyl ether(ceteth-19), polyethylene glycol(20) cetyl ether (ceteth-20),

polyethylene glycol(13) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-13), polyethyleneglycol(14) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-14), polyethylene glycol(15)isocetyl ether (isoceteth-15), polyethylene glycol(16) isocetyl ether(isoceteth-16), polyethylene glycol(17) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-17),polyethylene glycol(18) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-18), polyethyleneglycol(19) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-19), polyethylene glycol(20)isocetyl ether (isoceteth-20),

polyethylene glycol(12) oleyl ether (oleth-12), polyethylene glycol(13)oleyl ether (oleth-13), polyethylene glycol(14) oleyl ether (oleth-14),polyethylene glycol(15) oleyl ether (oleth-15),

polyethylene glycol(12) lauryl ether (laureth-12), polyethyleneglycol(12) isolauryl ether (isolaureth-12),

polyethylene glycol(13) cetylstearyl ether (ceteareth-13), polyethyleneglycol(14) cetylstearyl ether (ceteareth-14), polyethylene glycol(15)cetylstearyl ether (ceteareth-15), polyethylene glycol(16) cetylstearylether (ceteareth-16), polyethylene glycol(17) cetylstearyl ether(ceteareth-17), polyethylene glycol(18) cetylstearyl ether(ceteareth-18), polyethylene glycol (19) cetylstearyl ether(ceteareth-19), polyethylene glycol(20) cetylstearyl ether(ceteareth-20).

It is also advantageous to choose the fatty acid ethoxylates from thefollowing group:

polyethylene glycol(20) stearate, polyethylene glycol(21) stearate,polyethylene glycol(22) stearate, polyethylene glycol(23) stearate,polyethylene glycol(24) stearate, polyethylene glycol(25) stearate,

polyethylene glycol(12) isostearate, polyethylene glycol(13)isostearate, polyethylene glycol(14) isostearate, polyethyleneglycol(15) isostearate, polyethylene glycol(16) isostearate,polyethylene glycol(17) isostearate, polyethylene glycol(18)isostearate, polyethylene glycol(19) isostearate, polyethyleneglycol(20) isostearate, polyethylene glycol(21) isostearate,polyethylene glycol(22) isostearate, polyethylene glycol(23) isostearate, polyethylene glycol(24) isostea rate, polyethylene glycol(25)isostearate,

polyethylene glycol(12) oleate, polyethylene glycol(13) oleate,polyethylene glycol(14) oleate, polyethylene glycol(15) oleate,polyethylene glycol(16) oleate, polyethylene glycol(17) oleate,polyethylene glycol(18) oleate, polyethylene glycol(19) oleate,polyethylene glycol(20) oleate.

The ethoxylated alkyl ether carboxylic acid or salt thereof which can beused is advantageously sodium laureth-11 carboxylate.

Sodium laureth-14 sulfate can be used advantageously as alkyl ethersulfate.

An advantageous ethoxylated cholesterol derivative which can be used ispolyethylene glycol(30) cholesteryl ether. Polyethylene glycol(25)soyasterol has also proven successful.

Ethoxylated triglycerides which can be advantageously used arepolyethylene glycol(60) Evening Primrose glycerides.

It is also advantageous to choose the polyethylene glycol glycerol fattyacid esters from the group polyethylene glycol(20) glyceryl laurate,polyethylene glycol(21) glyceryl laurate, polyethylene glycol(22)glyceryl laurate, polyethylene glycol(23) glyceryl laurate, polyethyleneglycol(6) glyceryl caprate, polyethylene glycol(20) glyceryl oleate,polyethylene glycol(20) glyceryl isostearate, polyethylene glycol(18)glyceryl oleate/cocoate.

It is likewise favorable to choose the sorbitan esters from the grouppolyethylene glycol(20) sorbitan monolaurate, polyethylene glycol(20)sorbitan monostearate, polyethylene glycol(20) sorbitan monoisostearate,polyethylene glycol(20) sorbitan monopalmitate, polyethylene glycol(20)sorbitan monooleate.

Advantageous W/O emulsifiers which can be used are: fatty alcoholshaving 8 to 30 carbon atoms, monoglycerol esters of saturated and/orunsaturated, branched and/or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids having achain length of from 8 to 24, in particular 12-18, carbon atoms,diglycerol esters of saturated and/or unsaturated, branched and/orunbranched alkanecarboxylic acids having a chain length of from 8 to 24,in particular 12-18, carbon atoms, monoglycerol ethers of saturatedand/or unsaturated, branched and/or unbranched alcohols having a chainlength of from 8 to 24, in particular 12-18, carbon atoms, diglycerolethers of saturated and/or unsaturated, branched and/or unbranchedalcohols having a chain length of from 8 to 24, in particular 12-18,carbon atoms, propylene glycol esters of saturated and/or unsaturated,branched and/or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids having a chain lengthof from 8 to 24, in particular 12-18, carbon atoms, and sorbitan estersof saturated and/or unsaturated, branched and/or unbranchedalkanecarboxylic acids having a chain length of from 8 to 24, inparticular 12-18, carbon atoms.

Particularly advantageous W/O emulsifiers are glyceryl monostearate,glyceryl monoisostearate, glyceryl monomyristate, glyceryl monooleate,diglyceryl monostearate, diglyceryl monoisostearate, propylene glycolmonostearate, propylene glycol monoisostearate, propylene glycolmonocaprylate, propylene glycol monolaurate, sorbitan monoisostearate,sorbitan monolaurate, sorbitan monocaprylate, sorbitan monoisooleate,sucrose distearate, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol,behenyl alcohol, isobehenyl alcohol, selachyl alcohol, chimyl alcohol,polyethylene glycol(2) stearyl ether (steareth-2), glyceryl monolaurate,glyceryl monocaprate, glyceryl monocaprylate.

The gel creams according to the invention can comprise dyes and/or colorpigments. The dyes and color pigments can be chosen from thecorresponding positive list of the Cosmetics Directive or the EC list ofcosmetic colorants. In most cases they are identical to the dyesapproved for foods. Advantageous color pigments are, for example,titanium dioxide, mica, iron oxides (e.g. Fe₂O₃, Fe₃O₄, FeO(OH)) and/ortin oxide. Advantageous dyes are, for example, carmine, Berlin blue,chrome oxide green, ultramarine blue and/or manganese violet. It isparticularly advantageous to choose the dyes and/or color pigments fromthe following list. The Colour Index Numbers (CIN) are taken from theRowe Colour Index, 3rd Edition, Society of Dyers and Colourists,Bradford, England, 1971.

Chemical or other name CIN Color Pigment Green 10006 green Acid Green 110020 green 2,4-Dinitrohydroxynaphthalene-7-sulfonic acid 10316 yellowPigment Yellow 1 11680 yellow Pigment Yellow 3 11710 yellow PigmentOrange 1 11725 orange 2,4-Dihydroxyazobenzene 11920 orange Solvent Red 312010 red 1-(2′-Chloro-4′-nitro-1′-phenylazo)-2- 12085 redhydroxynaphthalene Pigment Red 3 12120 red Ceres red; Sudan red; Fat RedG 12150 red Pigment Red 112 12370 red Pigment Red 7 12420 red PigmentBrown 1 12480 brown 4-(2′-Methoxy-5′-sulfodiethylamido- 12490 red1′-phenylazo)-3-hydroxy-5″- chloro-2″,4″-dimethoxy-2-naphthanilideDisperse Yellow 16 12700 yellow1-(4-Sulfo-1-phenylazo)-4-aminobenzene-5-sulfonic 13015 yellow acid2,4-Dihydroxyazobenzene-4′-sulfonic acid 14270 orange2-(2,4-Dimethylphenylazo-5-sulfo)-1- 14700 redhydorxynaphthalene-4-sulfonic acid2-(4-Sulfo-1-naphthylazo)-1-naphthol-4-sulfonic acid 14720 red2-(6-Sulfo-2,4-xylylazo)-1-naphthol-5-sulfonic acid 14815 red1-(4′-Sulfophenylazo)-2-hydroxynaphthalene 15510 orange1-(2-Sulfo-4-chloro-5-carboxy-1-phenylazo)-2- 15525 redhydroxynaphthalene 1-(3-Methylphenylazo-4-sulfo)-2-hydroxynaphthalene15580 red 1-(4′,(8′)-Sulfonaphthylazo)-2-hydroxynaphthalene 15620 red2-Hydroxy-1,2′-azonaphthalene-1′-sulfonic acid 15630 red3-Hydroxy-4-phenylazo-2-naphthylcarboxylic acid 15800 red1-(2-Sulfo-4-methyl-1-phenylazo)-2- 15850 red naphthylcarboxylic acid1-(2-Sulfo-4-methyl-5-chloro-1-phenylazo)-2- 15865 redhydroxynaphthalene-3-carboxylic acid1-(2-Sulfo-1-naphthylazo)-2-hydroxynaphthalene- 15880 red 3-carboxylicacid 1-(3-Sulfo-1-phenylazo)-2-naphthol-6-sulfonic acid 15980 orange1-(4-Sulfo-1-phenylazo)-2-naphthol-6-sulfonic acid 15985 yellow AlluraRed 16035 red 1-(4-Sulfo-1-naphthylazo)-2-naphthol-3,6-disulfonic 16185red acid Acid Orange 10 16230 orange1-(4-Sulfo-1-naphthylazo)-2-naphthol-6,8-disulfonic 16255 red acid1-(4-Sulfo-1-naphthylazo)-2-naphthol-3,6,8-trisulfonic 16290 red acid8-Amino-2-phenylazo-1-naphthol-3,6-disulfonic acid 17200 red Acid Red 118050 red Acid Red 155 18130 red Acid Yellow 121 18690 yellow Acid Red180 18736 red Acid Yellow 11 18820 yellow Acid Yellow 17 18965 yellow4-(4-Sulfo-1-phenylazo)-1-(4-sulfophenyl)-5-hydroxy- 19140 yellowpyrazolone-3-carboxylic acid Pigment Yellow 16 20040 yellow2,6-(4′-Sulfo-2″,4″-dimethyl)bisphenylazo)- 20170 orange1,3-dihydroxybenzene Acid Black 1 20470 black Pigment Yellow 13 21100yellow Pigment Yellow 83 21108 yellow Solvent Yellow 21230 yellow AcidRed 163 24790 red Acid Red 73 27290 red2-[4′-(4″-Sulfo-1″-phenylazo)-7′-sulfo- 27755 black1′-naphthylazo]-1-hydroxy- 7-aminonaphthalene-3,6-disulfonic acid4′-[(4″-Sulfo-1″-phenylazo)-7′-sulfo- 28440 black1′-naphthylazo]-1-hydroxy- 8-acetylaminonaphthalene-3,5-disulfonic acidDirect Orange 34, 39, 44, 46, 60 40215 orange Food Yellow 40800 orangetrans-β-Apo-8′-carotinaldehyde (C₃₀) 40820 orange trans-Apo-8′-carotinicacid (C₃₀)-ethyl ester 40825 orange Canthaxanthin 40850 orange Acid Blue1 42045 blue 2,4-Disulfo-5-hydroxy-4′-4″-bis(diethylamino)- 42051 bluetriphenylcarbinol 4-[(4-N-Ethyl-p-sulfobenzylamino)phenyl(4-hydroxy-42053 green 2-sulfophenyl)(methylene)-1-(N-ethyl-N-p-sulfobenzyl)-2,5-cyclohexadienimine] Acid Blue 7 42080 blue(N-Ethyl-p-sulfobenzylamino)phenyl(2-sulfophenyl)- 42090 bluemethylene-(N-ethyl-N-p-sulfobenzyl)Δ^(2,5)- cyclohexadienimine AcidGreen 9 42100 green Diethyldisulfobenzyldi-4-amino-2-chlorodi-2-methyl-42170 green fuchsonimmonium Basic Violet 14 42510 violet Basic Violet 242520 violet 2′-Methyl-4′-(N-ethyl-N-m-sulfobenzyl)amino- 42735 blue4″-(N-diethyl)amino- 2-methyl-N-ethyl-N-m-sulfobenzylfuchsonimmonium4′-(N-Dimethyl)amino-4″-(N-phenyl)- 44045 blueaminonaphtho-N-dimethyl-fuchsonimmonium 2-Hydroxy-3,6-disulfo-4,4′-44090 green bisdimethylaminonaphtho-fuchsonimmonium Acid Red 52 45100red 3-(2′-Methylphenylamino)-6-(2′-methyl- 45190 violet4′-sulfophenylamino)-9-(2″-carboxyphenyl)- xanthenium salt Acid Red 5045220 red Phenyl-2-oxyfluorone-2-carboxylic acid 45350 yellow4,5-Dibromofluorescein 45370 orange 2,4,5,7-Tetrabromofluorescein 45380red Solvent Dye 45396 orange Acid Red 98 45405 red3′,4′,5′,6′-Tetrachloro-2,4,5,7-tetrabromofluorescein 45410 red4,5-Diiodofluorescein 45425 red 2,4,5,7-Tetraiodofluorescein 45430 redQuinophthalone 47000 yellow Quinophthalonedisulfonic acid 47005 yellowAcid Violet 50 50325 violet Acid Black 2 50420 black Pigment Violet 2351319 violet 1,2-Dioxyanthraquinone, calcium-aluminum complex 55000 red3-Oxypyrene-5,8,10-sulfonic acid 59040 green1-Hydroxy-4-N-phenylaminoanthraquinone 60724 violet1-Hydroxy-4-(4′-methylphenylamino)anthraquinone 60725 violet Acid Violet23 60730 violet 1,4-Di(4′-methylphenylamino)anthraquinone 61565 green1,4-Bis(o-sulfo-p-toluidino)anthraquinone 61570 green Acid Blue 80 61585blue Acid Blue 62 62045 blue N,N′-Dihydro-1,2,1′,2′-anthraquinone azine69800 blue Vat Blue 6; Pigment Blue 64 69825 blue Vat Orange 7 71105orange Indigo 73000 blue Indigo-disulfonic acid 73015 blue4,4′-Dimethyl-6,6′-dichlorothioindigo 73360 red5,5′-Dichloro-7,7′-dimethylthioindigo 73385 violet Quinacridone Violet19 73900 violet Pigment Red 122 73915 red Pigment Blue 16 74100 bluePhthalocyanine 74160 blue Direct Blue 86 74180 blue Chlorinatedphthalocyanine 74260 green Natural Yellow 6,19; Natural Red 1 75100yellow Bixin, Norbixin 75120 orange Lycopene 75125 yellow trans-alpha-,beta- and gamma-carotene 75130 orange Keto-and/or hydroxyl derivates ofcarotene 75135 yellow Guanine or pearlescent agent 75170 white1,7-Bis(4-hydroxy-3-methoxyphenyl)-1,6- 75300 yellowheptadiene-3,5-dione Complex salt (Na, Al, Ca) of carminic acid 75470red Chlorophyll a and b; copper compounds of 75810 green chlorophyllsand chlorophyllins Aluminum 77000 white Hydrated alumina 77002 whiteHydrous aluminum silicates 77004 white Ultramarine 77007 blue PigmentRed 101 and 102 77015 red Barium sulfate 77120 white Bismuth oxychlorideand its mixtures with mica 77163 white Calcium carbonate 77220 whiteCalcium sulfate 77231 white Carbon 77266 black Pigment black 9 77267black Carbo medicinalis vegetabilis 77268:1 black Chromium oxide 77288green Chromium oxide, hydrous 77289 green Pigment Blue 28, Pigment Green14 77346 green Pigment Metal 2 77400 brown Gold 77480 brown Iron oxidesand hydroxides 77489 orange Iron oxide 77491 red Hydrated iron oxide77492 yellow Iron oxide 77499 black Mixtures of iron(II)- andiron(III)hexacyanoferrate 77510 blue Pigment White 18 77713 whiteManganese ammonium diphosphate 77742 violet Manganese phosphate;Mn₃(PO₄)₂.7 H₂O 77745 red Silver 77820 white Titanium dioxide and itsmixtures with mica 77891 white Zinc oxide 77947 white6,7-Dimethyl-9-(1′-D-ribityl)isoalloxazine, lactoflavine yellow Sugarcoloring brown Capsanthin, capsorubin orange Betanin red Benzopyryliumsalts, anthocyans red Aluminum, zinc, magnesium and calcium stearatewhite Bromothymol blue blue Bromocresol green green Acid Red 195 red

It may also be favorable to choose as dye one or more substances fromthe following group: 2,4-dihydroxyazobenzene,1-(2′-chloro-4′-nitro-1′-phenylazo)-2-hydroxy-naphthalene, Ceres Red,2-(4-sulfo-1-naphthylazo)-1-naphthol4-sulfonic acid, calcium salt of2-hydroxy-1,2′-azonaphthalene-1′-sulfonic acid, calcium and barium saltsof 1-(2-sulfo-4-methyl-1-phenylazo)-2-naphthylcarboxylic acid, calciumsalt of 1-(2-sulfo-1-naphthylazo)-2-hydroxynaphthalene-3-carboxylicacid, aluminum salt of 1-(4-sulfo-1-phenylazo)-2-naphthol-6-sulfonicacid, aluminum salt of1-(4-sulfo-1-naphthylazo)-2-naphthol-3,6-disulfonic acid,1-(4-sulfo-1-naphthylazo)-2-naphthol-6,8-disulfonic acid, aluminum saltof4-(4-sulfo-1-phenylazo)-1-(4-sulfophenyl)-5-hydroxypyrazolone-3-carboxylicacid, aluminum and zirconium salts of 4,5-dibromofluorescein, aluminumand zirconium salts of 2,4,5,7-tetrabromofluorescein,3′,4′,5′,6′-tetrachloro -2,4,5,7-tetrabromofluorescein and its aluminumsalt, aluminum salt of 2,4,5,7-tetraiodofluorescein, aluminum salt ofquinophthalone disulfonic acid, aluminum salt of indigo disulfonic acid,red and black iron oxide (CIN: 77 491 (red) and 77 499 (black)), ironoxide hydrate (CIN: 77 492), manganese ammonium diphosphate and titaniumdioxide.

Also advantageous are oil-soluble natural dyes, such as, for example,paprika extracts, β-carotene or cochenille.

Also advantageous for the purposes of the present invention are gelcreams with a content of pearlescent pigments. Preference is given inparticular to the types of pearlescent pigments listed below:

1. Natural pearlescent pigments, such as, for example “pearl essence”(guanine/hypoxanthin mixed crystals from fish scales) and “mother ofpearl” (ground mussel shells)

2. Monocrystalline pearlescent pigments, such as, for example, bismuthoxychloride (BiOCl)

3. Layer-substrate pigments: e.g. mica/metal oxide.

Bases for pearlescent pigments are, for example, pulverulent pigments orcastor oil dispersions of bismuth oxychloride and/or titanium dioxide,and bismuth oxychloride and/or titanium dioxide on mica. The lusterpigment listed under CIN 77163, for example, is particularlyadvantageous.

Also advantageous are, for example, the following types of pearlescentpigment based on mica/metal oxide:

Coating/layer Group thickness Color Silver-white pearlescent pigmentsTiO₂: 40-60 μm Silver Interference pigments TiO₂: 40-60 μm Yellow TiO₂:40-60 μm Red TiO₂: 40-60 μm Blue TiO₂: 40-60 μm Green Color lusterpigments Fe₂O₃ Bronze Fe₂O₃ Copper Fe₂O₃ Red Fe₂O₃ Red-violet Fe₂O₃Red-green Fe₂O₃ Black Combination pigments TiO₂/Fe₂O₃ Gold shadesTiO₂/Cr₂O₃ Green TiO₂/Berlin blue Deep blue TiO₂/carmine Red

Particular preference is given, for example, to the pearlescent pigmentsobtainable from Merck under the trade names Timiron, Colorona orDichrona.

The list of given pearlescent pigments is not of course intended to belimiting. Pearlescent pigments which are advantageous for the purposesof the present invention are obtainable by numerous methods known perse. For example, other substrates apart from mica can be coated withfurther metal oxides, such as, for example, silica and the like SiO₂particles coated with, for example, TiO₂ and Fe₂O₃ (“ronaspheres”),which are marketed by Merck and are particularly suitable for theoptical reduction of fine lines, are advantageous.

It can moreover be advantageous to dispense completely with a substratesuch as mica. Particular preference is given to iron pearlescentpigments prepared without the use of mica. Such pigments are obtainable,for example, under the trade name Sicopearl Kupfer 1000 from BASF.

In addition, also particularly advantageous are effect pigments whichare obtainable under the trade name Metasome Standard/Glitter in variouscolors (yellow, red, green, blue) from Flora Tech. The glitter particlesare present here in mixtures with various auxiliaries and dyes (such as,for example, the dyes with the Colour Index (CI) Numbers 19140, 77007,77289, 77491).

The dyes and pigments may be present either individually or in amixture, and can be mutually coated with one another, different coatingthicknesses generally giving rise to different color effects. The totalamount of dyes and color-imparting pigments is advantageously chosenfrom the range from e.g. 0.1% by weight to 30% by weight, preferablyfrom 0.5 to 15% by weight, in particular from 1.0 to 10% by weight, ineach case based on the total weight of the preparations.

The gel creams according to the invention can, in particular,advantageously be used as eyeshadows.

Particularly advantageous preparations are also obtained whenantioxidants are used as additives or active ingredients. According tothe invention, the preparations advantageously comprise one or moreantioxidants. Antioxidants which are favorable but which arenevertheless optional may be all antioxidants which are customary orsuitable for cosmetic and/or dermatological applications.

It is also advantageous to add antioxidants to the preparationsaccording to the invention. The antioxidants are advantageously chosenfrom the group consisting of amino acids (e.g. glycine, histidine,tyrosine, tryptophan) and derivatives thereof, imidazoles (e.g. urocanicacid) and derivatives thereof, peptides, such as D,L-carnosine,D-carnosine, L-carnosine and derivatives thereof (e.g. anserine),carotenoids, carotenes (e.g. α-carotene, β-carotene, lycopene) andderivatives thereof, chlorogenic acid and derivatives thereof, lipoicacid and derivatives thereof (e.g. dihydrolipoic acid),aurothio-glucose, propylthiouracil and other thiols (e.g. thioredoxin,glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and the glycosyl, N-acetyl,methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl,γ-linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters thereof) and salts thereof,dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearyl thiodipropionate, thiodipropionicacid and derivatives thereof (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids,nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) and sulfoximine compounds (e.g.buthionine sulfoximines, homocysteine sulfoximine, buthionine sulfones,penta-, hexa-, heptathionine sulphoximine) in very low tolerated doses(e.g. pmol to μmol/kg), and also (metal) chelating agents (e.g.α-hydroxy fatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferrin),α-hydroxy acids (e.g. citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid), humic acid,bile acid, bile extracts, bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA andderivatives thereof, unsaturated fatty acids and derivatives thereof(e.g. γ-linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid), folic acid andderivatives thereof, ubiquinone and ubiquinol and derivatives thereof,vitamin C and derivatives (e.g. ascorbyl palmitate, Mg ascorbylphosphate, ascorbyl acetate), tocopherols and derivatives (e.g. vitaminE acetate), vitamin A and derivatives (vitamin A palmitate) andconiferyl benzoate of benzoin resin, rutinic acid and derivativesthereof, α-glycosylrutin, ferulic acid, furfurylideneglucitol,carnosine, butylhydroxytoluene, butylhydroxyanisole, nordihydroguaiacicacid, nordihydroguaiaretic acid, trihydroxybutyrophenone, uric acid andderivatives thereof, mannose and derivatives thereof, zinc andderivatives thereof (e.g. ZnO, ZnSO₄), selenium and derivatives thereof(e.g. selenomethionine), stilbenes and derivatives thereof (e.g.stilbene oxide, trans-stilbene oxide), and the derivatives (salts,esters, ethers, sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipids)of said active ingredients which are suitable according to theinvention.

For the purposes of the present invention, oil-soluble antioxidants canbe used particularly advantageously.

A surprising property of the present invention is that preparationsaccording to the invention are very good vehicles for cosmetic ordermatological active ingredients into the skin, preferred activeingredients being antioxidants which are able to protect the skinagainst oxidative stress. Preferred antioxidants are vitamin E andderivatives thereof and vitamin A and derivatives thereof.

The amount of antioxidants (one or more compounds) in the preparationsis preferably from 0.001 to 30% by weight, particularly preferably0.05-20% by weight, in particular 1-10% by weight, based on the totalweight of the preparation.

If vitamin E and/or derivatives thereof are the antioxidant orantioxidants, the respective concentrations thereof are advantageouslychosen from the range 0.001-10% by weight, based on the total weight ofthe formulation.

If vitamin A or vitamin A derivatives or carotenes or derivativesthereof are used as the antioxidant or antioxidants, the respectiveconcentrations thereof are advantageously chosen from the range0.001-10% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation.

The person skilled in the art is of course aware that cosmeticpreparations are in most cases, inconceivable without the customaryauxiliaries and additives. The cosmetic and dermatological preparationsaccording to the invention can, accordingly, also comprise cosmeticauxiliaries, as are customarily used in such preparations, for examplebodying agents, stabilizers, fillers, preservatives, perfumes,antifoams, dyes, pigments which have a coloring action, thickeners,surface-active substances, emulsifiers, emollients, moisturizers and/orhumectants, anti-inflammatory substances, additional active ingredientssuch as vitamins or proteins, sunscreens, insect repellants,bactericides, virucides, water, salts, antimicrobial, proteolytic orkeratolytic substances, medicaments or other customary constituents of acosmetic or dermatological formulation such as alcohols, polyols,polymers, foam stabilizers, organic solvents or also electrolytes.

The latter can be chosen, for example, from the group of saltscontaining the following anions: chlorides, also inorganic oxo elementanions, of these, in particular sulfates, carbonates, phosphates,borates and aluminates. Electrolytes based on organic anions are alsoadvantageous, e.g. lactates, acetates, benzoates, propionates,tartrates, citrates, amino acids, ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid andsalts thereof and others. Preferred cations of the salts are ammonium,alkylammonium, alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, magnesium, iron orzinc ions. It goes without saying that only physiologically acceptableelectrolytes should be used in cosmetics. Particular preference is givento potassium chloride, sodium chloride, magnesium sulfate, zinc sulfateand mixtures thereof.

Corresponding requirements apply mutatis mutandis to the formulation ofmedicinal preparations.

The gel creams according to the invention can be used as a base forcosmetic or dermatological formulations. The latter can have thecustomary composition and be used, for example, for the treatment andcare of the skin and/or the hair, as lip care product, as deodorantproduct and as make-up or make-up remover product in decorativecosmetics or as a sunscreen preparation. For use, the cosmetic anddermatological preparations according to the invention are applied tothe skin and/or the hair in a sufficient amount in a manner customaryfor cosmetics or dermatological compositions.

For the purposes of the present invention, cosmetic or topicaldermatological compositions can accordingly, depending on theircomposition, be used, for example, as a skin protection cream, cleansingmilk, sunscreen lotion, nutrient cream, day or night cream, etc. In somecircumstances it is possible and advantageous to use the compositionsaccording to the invention as a base for pharmaceutical formulations.

The cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the inventioncan, for example, be in the form of preparations which can be sprayedfrom aerosol containers, squeezable bottles or by means of a pumpdevice, or in the form of a liquid composition which can be applied bymeans of roll-on devices, but also in the form of an emulsion which canbe applied from normal bottles and containers.

Suitable propellants for cosmetic or dermatological preparations whichcan be sprayed from aerosol containers for the purposes of the presentinvention are the customary known readily volatile, liquefiedpropellants, for example hydrocarbons (propane, butane, isobutane),which can be used alone or in a mixture with one another. Compressed airis also used advantageously.

The person skilled in the art is of course aware that there arepropellants which are non-toxic per se which would be suitable inprinciple for realizing the present invention in the form of aerosolpreparations, but which must nevertheless be avoided because of theirunacceptable impact on the environment or other accompanyingcircumstances, in particular fluorocarbons and chlorofluorocarbons(CFCs).

Those cosmetic and dermatological preparations which are in the form ofa sunscreen are also favorable. As well as the active ingredientcombinations according to the invention, these preferably additionallycomprise at least one UV-A filter substance and/or at least one UV-Bfilter substance and/or at least one inorganic pigment.

For the purposes of the present invention, however, it is alsoadvantageous to provide those cosmetic and dermatological preparationswhose main purpose is not protection against sunlight, but whichnevertheless have a content of UV protectants. Thus, for example, UV-Aor UV-B filter substances are usually incorporated into day creams.

UV protectants, like antioxidants and, if desired, preservatives, alsoeffectively protect the preparations themselves against decay.

Furthermore, preparations according to the invention can advantageouslycomprise substances which absorb UV radiation in the UV-B range, thetotal amount of filter substances being, for example, from 0.1% byweight to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight, inparticular from 1.0 to 6.0% by weight, based on the total weight of thepreparations, in order to provide cosmetic preparations which protectthe hair and/or the skin from the whole region of ultraviolet radiation.They can also be used as sunscreens for the hair or the skin.

If the emulsions according to the invention comprise UV-B filtersubstances, the latter may be oil-soluble or water-soluble. Examples ofoil-soluble UV-B filters which are advantageous according to theinvention are:

3-benzylidenecamphor derivatives, preferably3-(4-methylbenzylidene)camphor, 3-benzylidenecamphor;

4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably 2-ethylhexyl4-(dimethyl-amino)benzoate, amyl 4-(dimethylamino)benzoate;

esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxycinnamate,isopentyl 4-methoxycinnamate;

esters of salicylic acid, preferably 2-ethylhexyl salicylate,4-isopropylbenzyl salicylate, homomenthyl salicylate;

derivatives of benzophenone, preferably 2-hydroxy4-methoxybenzophenone,2-hydroxy-4-methoxy4′-methylbenzophenone,2,2′-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone;

esters of benzalmalonic acid, preferably di(2-ethylhexyl)4-methoxybenzalmalonate;

derivatives of 1,3,5-triazine, preferably2,4,6-trianilino(p-carbo-2′-ethyl-1′-hexyloxy)-1,3,5-triazine.

The list of said UV-B filters, which may be used in combination with theactive ingredient combinations according to the invention, is of coursenot intended to be limiting.

It can also be advantageous to formulate lipodispersions according tothe invention with UV-A filters which have hitherto been customarilypresent in cosmetic preparations. These substances are preferablyderivatives of dibenzoylmethane, in particular1-(4′-tert-butylphenyl)-3-(4′-methoxyphenyl)propane-1,3-dione and1-phenyl-3-(4′-isopropylphenyl)propane-1,3-dione.

Cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention canalso comprise inorganic pigments which are customarily used in cosmeticsfor protecting the skin against UV rays. These are oxides of titanium,zinc, iron, zirconium, silicon, manganese, aluminum, cerium and mixturesthereof, and modifications in which the oxides are the active agents.Particular preference is given to pigments based on titanium dioxide.

Further constituents which can be used are:

fats, waxes and other natural and synthetic fatty substances, preferablyesters of fatty acids with alcohols of low carbon number, e.g. withisopropanol, propylene glycol or glycerol, or esters of fatty alcoholswith alkanoic acids of low carbon number or with fatty acids;

alcohols, diols or polyols of low carbon number, and ethers thereof,preferably ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, glycerol, ethyleneglycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or monobutyl ethers, propylene glycolmonomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ethers, diethylene glycol monomethylor monoethyl ethers and analogous products.

The examples below serve to illustrate the present invention withoutlimiting it. The numerical values in the examples refer to percentagesby weight, based on the total weight of the respective preparations.

EXAMPLE 1 (Hydrodispersion Gel)

% by wt PEG-8 (polyethylene glycol 400) 5.00 Ethanol 10.00 AristoflexAVC 0.70 Triglyceride, liquid 1.50 Glycerol 5.00 Panthenol 0.50Tocopherol acetate 0.50 Perfume, preservatives, NaOH, dyes, antioxidantsetc. q.s. Water ad 100.00

EXAMPLE 2 (Hydrodispersion Gel)

% by wt. Xanthan gum 0.20 Aristoflex AVC 1.00 Glycerol 5.00 1,3-Butyleneglycol 2.00 Dimethicone 3.00 Isopropyl palmitate 1.50 Perfume,preservatives, NaOH, dyes, antioxidants, pigments etc. q.s. Water ad100.00

EXAMPLE 3

% by wt. Sucrose stearate 1.00 Cetearyl alcohol 0.50 PEG-5 soyasterol2.00 Tocopherol 1.00 Aristoflex AVC 1.00 Glycerol 3.00 EDTA 0.50Antioxidants, preservatives, neutralizing agents, perfume, dyes,pigments q.s. Water ad 100.00

EXAMPLE 4

% by wt. Glycerol monostearate 2.00 PEG-40 glyceryl stearate 0.50Aristoflex AVC 1.00 Magnesium aluminum silicate 0.30 Glycerol 5.001,3-Butylene glycol 2.00 Panthenol 2.50 Perfume, preservatives, NaOH,complexing agent, dyes, antioxidants, pigments etc. q.s. Water ad 100.00

EXAMPLE 5

% by wt. Glyceryl stearate citrate 1.50 Cetyl alcohol 0.50 Jojoba oil2.00 Aristoflex AVC 0.50 Chitosan 0.50 Lactic acid (90% strength) 0.30Glycerol 5.00 Perfume, preservatives, NaOH, dyes, antioxidants, pigmentsetc. q.s. Water ad 100.00

EXAMPLE 6

% by wt Polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate 2.00 Sorbitan stearate0.50 Glycerol 3.00 C₁₂₋₁₅-Alkyl benzoates 5.00 Caprylic/caprictriglycerides 3.00 Aristoflex AVC 0.50 Perfume, preservatives, NaOH,dyes, antioxidants, pigments etc. q.s. Water ad 100.00

EXAMPLE 7

% by wt Decyl glucoside 1.00 Glyceryl lanolate 1.50 Dimethicone copolyol2.00 Triceteareth-4 phosphate 0.70 Panthenol 1.50 Isopropyl palmitate1.00 Aristoflex AVC 1.00 Perfume, preservatives, NaOH, dyes,antioxidants, pigments etc. q.s. Water ad 100.00

EXAMPLE 8

% by wt Stearyl alcohol 2.00 Caprylic/capric triglycerides 2.00 Paraffinoil 2.00 Octyldodecanol 3.00 Glycerol 3.00 Acrylates/C₁₀₋₃₀-alkylacrylate cross polymer 0.15 Aristoflex AVC 0.20 Tocopheryl acetate 0.50Perfume, preservatives, NaOH, dyes, antioxidants, pigments etc. q.s.Water, demineralized ad 100.00

What is claimed is:
 1. A cosmetic or dermatological gel cream of theoil-in-water type, comprising (i) up to 90% by weight of a water phase,(ii) up to 20% by weight of a lipid phase, based on the total weight ofthe preparation, (iii) up to 5% by weight of one or more emulsifiers,(iv) also comprising up to 5% by weight of one or more ammoniumacryloyldimethyltaurates/vinylpyrrolidone copolymers.
 2. The gel creamas claimed in claim 1, wherein its lipid content ranges from 0.5% byweight to 20% by weight.
 3. The gel cream of claim 2, wherein said lipidcontent ranges form 5-10% by weight.
 4. The gel cream as claimed inclaim 3, wherein its lipid content is up to 7.5% by weight.
 5. The gelcream as claimed in claim 1, further comprising one or more dyes,coloring pigments or a combination thereof.
 6. An eyeshadow comprising agel cream of claim
 5. 7. The gel cream as claimed in claim 5, whereinthe total amount of the dyes and coloring pigments is from 0.1% byweight to 30% by weight based on the total weight of the preparations.8. The gel cream of claim 7, wherein said amount is 0.5-15% by weight.9. The gel cream of claim 7, wherein said amount is 1-10% by weight.